Wednesday, 17 December 2014

Kinloch Castle

Kinloch Castle is an extraordinary summer palace on the remote, sparsely populated, Hebridean island of Rum. It was built between 1897 and 1900 for George Bullough, a very rich English industrialist.


George, handsome, and educated at Harrow was brought up to take his place in the highest echelons of British society.

On inheriting his fortune George Bullough traveled the world on the Rhouma, the yacht he bought in 1895, collecting many of the objects d'art on display in the castle. George Bullough had inherited the island of Rum from his father, industrialist John Bullough of Accrington. The family fortune had been made by John's father James Bullough who invented improvements in textile machinery and became the owner of a number of highly profitable mills in Lancashire.


George Bullough commissioned architects Leeming and Leeming to build a castle fit for a laird (who was soon to be knighted.)


They designed a square mansion on two floors with an arcaded verandha on three sides that provided cover for the ladies to walk in the inclement weather, as so often happens on Rum. A water turbine generated electricity; coal fired the boiler for central heating and hot water, double glazing was installed in most rooms and air conditioning replaced the air in the smoking and billiard rooms. From 1901 the castle had an external telephone system, one of the first in Scotland.


It took 300 men nearly three years to fulfill George Bullough's dream. According to local legend they were paid an extra shilling a week to wear Bullough tweed kilts. Smokers were paid an extra tuppence a day to keep away the midges. (Those nasty natives have a reputation for being among the most vicious of the species). It has also been said that George was wont to linger underneath his workers labouring up ladders, all the better to observe their assets.


No expense was spared, even down to importing shiploads of Ayrshire topsoil for the garden. This was the basis for extensive lawns and formal gardens. A bowling green was laid out and a nine hole golf course. There were a network of avenues, paths and roads. There was a Japanese garden, a fernery and a formal garden. Hot houses were built om the south facing wall for growing grapes, peaches, nectarines and figs. Others houses camellias and tropical ferns. These were famously home to free flying hummingbirds, while tanks housed turtles and alligators. This on a desolate mountainous island off the west coast of Scotland.


The outbreak of the Second Anglo-Boer War in 1899  prompted George Bullough to refit the Rhouma as a hospital ship and he sailed to Cape Town where he recruited doctors and nurses. In November 1900 Rhouma sailed back to Rum, bringing a few convalescents on board. They became the first guests at Kinloch Castle. On 11 December 1901 King Edward VII knighted George Bullough on behalf of a grateful nation, in recognition of his 'patriotic devotion'.

For the staff on the island, the arrival of sir George and his guests for the season was the climax of many months of preparation.  The island's roads were repaired, ponies broken in, boats carried to the lochs stocked with fish. The gardens were manicured to perfection Chauffeur-driven Albion motor cars met guests at the end of the pier. Those who came by ferry stepped into a horse drawn carriage, tide permitting. Otherwise ladies were carried ashore by estate workers.


The heart of Kinloch Castle is the great hall which remains almost as it was in the Bullough's heyday. Only they and their guests have gone. Many of the objects that Sir George acquired on his voyages around the world on the Rhouma are displayed in the room. Indian brass- topped tables, triangular bobbin-turned chairs, brocaded sofas and a concert grand piano, made by Steinway in 1900.


There are two enormous Japanese incense burners, crowned by an eagle fighting a dragon.

In pride of place, a bronze Japanese monkey-eating eagle.


Along the gallery are a series of Rum landscape paintings commissioned by Sir George from Byron Cooper.

Portraits of Sir George and Lady Bullough admire their hall.


Perhaps the most extraordinary feature of the hall is hidden away under the stairs. This is the Orchestrion, an electronically driven machine that uses rolls of perforated card and paper-thin brass to simulate a 40-piece orchestra. This incredible machine is one of only three such machines manufactured in Germany by Imhof and Mukle. This one had been intended for installation at Balmoral until the death of Prince Albert caused the Queen to loose interest in such frivolous amusements. Sir George seized the oppertunity to buy it for himself.

The Dining Room was where the Bullough's and their guests dined on salmon, trout, venison, blackcock, grouse, beef and lamb that all came from Rum. The walls are lined with mahogany panelling and were once hung with 17th century tapestries. The chairs came from the Rhouma.




Kinloch Castle was built for Sir George's personal pleasure, and that of his, mostly male, guests. At the heart of this masculine preserve, the Smoking and Billiard Rooms. While the panelled walls evoke the luxury of a bygone age, the room was fitted with the latest technology. Vents behind the paneling extracted the cigar smoke, and that of other combustibles, while fresh air was pumped in through a grill in the floor underneath the table. It has been suggested that Sir George Bullough enjoyed opium; well, in his day there was no stigma...if you could afford it.


Sir George Bullough was an owner of racehorses, paintings of some of which adorn the walls of the Smoking Room. His interest spanned both the National Hunt and Flat worlds. His Ballymacad won the Grand National in 1917. His Irish bred colt Golden Myth won the Ascot Gold Cup and the Eclipse Stakes in 1922. In 1934 his filly Campanula won the 1 000 Guineas.

The ballroom was designed for privacy. The windows are disproportionately small and placed at such a height to prevent anyone (the servants) in the courtyard from looking in. The orchestra, from the Rhouma, played in the gallery, screened from the ballroom by a heavy curtain that was never drawn. Drinks, cigars any any other requirements were delivered behind a screen and through a dumb waiter with a door on each side. A door was only opened when its opposite on the other side was closed. Whatever went on in the ballroom could only be heard not seen.

Above the sprung floor the ceiling twinkled with star lights. Against the walls the sofas are still covered in their original gold silk damask. The room is really small for a ballroom because the only guests would have been those staying at the castle.


In the back hall is a large relief map of Rum, Sir George's private playground. On the wall are a brace of masks caught by the Ledbury Hunt of which Sir George was a master from 1908 until 1927. After the season on Rum Sir George moved down to Herefordshire for the hunting. Sir George lived in grand style at the Down House, Redmarley and at that time the Hunt was the biggest employer in Ledbury with forty full time staff.


In 1903, Sir George married noted society beauty Monique Lily, nee de la Pasture at Kinloch Castle. They had one child, Hermione, born in 1906. Lady Bullough's family had reputedly fled France during the Revolution and she was born in New Zealand. The Bulloughs brought sophisticated metropolitan glamour to the Inner Hebrides. Lady Bullough introduced a feminine elegance to Kinloch Castle which had originally been conceived as a male preserve. One of her first acts as chatelaine of Kinloch Castle was to take over  the sunny Drawing Room and redecorate it to her own taste.


Lady Bullough claimed descent from one of Napoleon's sisters and used this dubious connection in naming the Empire Room. Originally Sir George's library, Lady Bullough requisitioned the room and redecorated it in red, white and gold, the wall paper emblazoned with Napoleonic wreaths.


Lady Monica chose for her bedroom, the room on the first floor above her sitting room, with its views across Loch Scresort.


The bathrooms in the castle are equipped with the most luxurious bath cum shower cabinets made by Shanks of Barhead.. These provided no less than seven functions controlled by two taps and four dials. Bathers could choose a shower, a douche which flooded water down , a wave which shot water out at face level or a spray which produced needles of water around the sides. if these were not quite what you wanted then there was the plunge where water poured in at knee height, the sitz, an upside down shower, or the jet where a fountain erupted from a waste outlet. It is a wonder anyone ever went down for dinner.


Adding to the speculation about the sexual shenanigans in the castle, Sir George had his own bedroom, on the opposite side of the castle to his wife.


Sir George Bullough died in 1939 on the golf course in France leaving Kinloch Castle and Rum in trust to his wife, Lady Bullough. He was buried alongside his father in the mausoleum at Harris on the west coast of Rum.


Monica, Lady Bullough visited the castle on and off until she passed it to the Nature Conservancy Council (NCC) in 1957, for £26,000, roughly £1 per acre. Rum then became a National Nature Reserve, that was later subsumed into Scottish National Heritage. Lady Bullough died at her House Warren Hill in Newmarket in 1967 aged 98 and is buried alongside her husband in the mausoleum at Harris.


Sir John Betjamen in an article for Scotland's Magazine, 1959 wrote that, ...

"There will be few examples surviving in Great Britain of Edwardian splendour equal to the interior of Kinloch Castle......in time to come the castle will become a place of pilgrimage for all those who want to see how people lived in good King Edward's days, that is, if Kinloch Castle survives."

Sunday, 14 December 2014

Badminton barns

The astronomer Thomas Wright was the first person to investigate the Milky Way and to speculate that feint nebulae were distant galaxies, was also a mathematician, instrument maker, garden designer and architect.He recognised that the earth and the human race are insignificant transitory parts of a vast universe.

"In this great Celestial Creation, the Catastrophe of a World, such as ours, or even the total Dissolution of a System of Worlds, may possibly be no more to the great Author of Nature, than the most common Accident in Life with us, and in all Probability such final and general DoomsDays may be as frequent there, as even Birth-Days or Mortality with us upon this Earth."

In the 1750's after most of Thomas Wright's scientific patrons had died, or lost interest, he worked as a full time designer. Astronomy's loss was Badminton's gain.

For 36 years Thomas Wright was employed at Badminton working on garden designs and architectural embellishments for the 'Great Proprietors', as the 4th and 5th Dukes of Beaufort were known. The 4th Duke who commissioned William Kent to embellish Badminton was also one of the first aristocrats to employ Canaletto in England. However it was the 4th Duchess Elizabeth who between 1750 and 1786 was the great supporter of Thomas Wright. The castellated barns that Thomas Wright designed at Badminton are among the most splendid eye-catchers enhancing the estate.

Tump Barn

Old Warren

Castle Barn

After his death in 1786,Thomas Wright was forgotten.

Tuesday, 9 December 2014

Museum of the Horse, Chantilly

The Museum of the Horse at Chantilly near Paris celebrates the fabuous relationship between Man and Horse, round the world and across history.

Attributed to Giuseppe Zocchi, Equestrian panel

The Great Stables (les Grandes Ecuries) at Chantilly, the grandest stables ever built make the perfect setting for the museum. The Grand Stables were commissioned by Louis-Henri de Bourbon, Prince of Conde (1692-1740). They were built between 1719 and 1735 by the architect Jean Aubert. According to legend, the prince believed in reincarnation and thought he would return as a horse, this led him to build a 'palace' for horses. In reality he wanted to house his horses, hounds and carriages. The stables were used by the Conde princes until the Revolution and in 1814 the Prince of Conde returned to Chantilly and continued the family tradition of hunting.


The Museum of the Horse was opened in 2013 in the Carriage Court of the Great Stables and holds displays of art, tack, objects, manuscripts, sports, games and trophies which reflect the changing role of the horse over the history.The ancestor of the horse is thought to have appeared between 5 500 000 and 4 500 000 BC. The species Equus developed in the past 2 million years. The tarpan, the wild horse of Europe (Equus ferus), along with Przewalski's horse is considered to be the most likely ancestor of our horses. the last wild tarpan died in captivity at the beginning of the 20th century.

"The Persians teach but three things to their sons between the ages of five and twenty: to ride a horse, to use a bow, and to tell the truth."
                        Herodotus, The Histories, c 484-425 BC.


Long after bovine domestication equine domestication began around 4 000 BC in the Ukraine and other parts of  the Near East and Central Asia. At that time horses were used only for food; it was not until thousands of years later that the harness was invented and then riding astride.

Humans gradually implemented selection and cross breeding techniques to raise horses which developed specific characteristics. in Europe, the first examples of developing different types of horse for different purposes occurred in the Middle Ages.

During the 19th century horse breeds adapted for different functions were produced by selective cross-breeding. Today 52 breeds are recognised in France.

Chinese earthenware horse,
Q'in dynasty, 6th-7th century.

It was during the first millenium BC that cavalry developed. The bit was the first invention by man to control the horse. Early riders rode bareback or on cloths to improve the comfort of both horse and rider. Alexander the Great rode 18 000 kilometers bareback to conquer Asia on his horse Bucephalus. A girth was later added to keep the cloth in place. The solid treed saddle was invented in Central Asia.

It was the Arabs who discovered stirrups after invading Persia, who introduced them to Europe. They became widespread in Europe beginning in the 9th century.

The horse's hoof has always been the object of particular care. Nailed shoes date from the 6th century in Byzantium, and three hundred years later had spread across Europe. With shoeing came the farrier whose remit soon increased to include the horse's health and minor surgery.

Large wheeled spur, iron and silver 
Chile, 18th century

Gala harnessing bit of the Dukes of Bourbon-Conde,
France, 19th century

Horses in the military were divided into two categories, heavy cavalry and light cavalry. Heavy cavalry used in Medieval Europe attacked the enemy with a full frontal charge, while the light cavalry which found favour in the Middle East used harassing tactics and repeated short charges.Horses were used in war up until WWI when several million were killed.


Costumes of the Imperial Russian Army,
One of a set of 63 hand coloured lithographs
St Petersburg 1832-1837

The horse's prestige is illustrated by by portraits of kings and the aristocracy depicted on horseback. Equestrian portraits were produced in both eastern and western civilizations.

In Europe riding was an essential component of a prince's education; horses are no respecters of breeding and can make a fool of anyone. So future kings and aristocrats were instructed in Haute Ecole dressage. The presence of horses in equestrian portraits reinforces the prestige evident in the sovereign's attire.

William of Orange-Nassau mounted on a charger
Blue dashed Delftware
c 1700

Francois Clouet, (c1515-1572)
Oil on wood panel
16th century

Juste d'Egmont (1601-1674)
Portrait of the young Lious XIV going hunting on his horse
Oil on wood panel, c1647

As humans settled and the practice of raising animals emerged, the importance of hunting diminished. in the Middle Ages in Europe, hunting became increasingly a privilege reserved for the aristocracy. Chantilly was a major centre for hunting. 

Paul-Emile  Froment-Meurice
Duke of Aumale on his mare Pelagie (detail) 
Bronze, 1864

"One must be sparing with punishment and lavish with caresses, as I have already said, and I will say it again, in order to make the horse obey and go out of pleasure rather than discomfort."
                                      Antoine de Pluvinel (1555-1620),
                Instruction of the King in the Art of Riding, 1625

Attributed to Giuseppe Zocchi, Equestrian Panel

The first horse races took place between 1000 and 1500 BC in Babylonia, Syria and Egypt. In Rome horse racing took place in the Circus Maximus (600-500 BC). Chariot races and horse racing were part of the ancient Olympic Games in Greece beginning in 648 BC.

Two of the French classic races are held at Chantilly, the Prix du Jockey Club (French Derby for three year old colts), and the Prix de Diane (French Oaks for three year old fillies) are run in June. The first race run at Chantilly was in 1833 and the racecourse was built the following year.

Pierre Vernet
Chantilly Races, 1836

Illustrated silks: guest books of racing stable owners
847 pages
Paris, 1907

"Merry go rounds" were developed in the 18th century.  Such "carrousels" for children had existed since Byzantine times. But around 1745 wagon-maker Michael Dentzel converted his waggon making business in Bavaria into a carrousel making company.

Carousel horses

Two of the most precious exhibits in the museum are carriages. On May 28, 1825 the Gala Berlin was used to convey Louis-Henri-Joseph, Duke of Bourbon and the 9th and last Prince of Conde and King Charles X on their way to the coronation at Rheims Cathedral. This carriage is one of the few luxury Berlins that still exist in France. As the carriage of a prince of the royal blood, it bears France's coat of arms; three fleur-de-lys beneath a royal crown. The Duke of Bourbon left the carriage to his great nephew and godson, the Duke of Aumale, along with his estate at Chantilly.

Duke of Bourbon's Berlin

The "Empresses' Carriage" was built before 1810 by the Parisian  carriage maker Prelot. The " Empresses' Carriage" was part of Napoleon I's and Louis-Phillipe's establishments. It was later repurchased by Napoleon III. The caleche had been given a name, as were many of Napoleon I's carriages. The name "Cibele No 5" is painted under the carriage body. It was also called the "Empresses' Caleche" because it was used by the Empresses Josephine and Marie-Louise, and later by Queen Marie-Amelie. Marie-Amelie's initials adorn the doors of the carriage. Cibele No 5 was kept at the Louvre until 1888 when the Empress Eugenie gave it to the Duke of Aumale. it is the only carriage of its type that still exists in France.

The"Empresses' Carriage, Cibele No.5

Monogram of Marie-Amelie

In the stables which the Duke of Aumale set up in the East Nave for his thoroughbreds and hunters are the living exhibits of the museum. There are Iberian horses(Andalucians and Lusitanos), Arabo-Frisians, Percheron and Black Forest heavy horses, and Welsh and Shetland ponies. Many of them are trained in Haute Ecole techniques and star in shows under the dome at the center of the Great Stables.

 Live exhibits


Attributed to Giuseppe Zocchi, Equestrian panel.

Wednesday, 3 December 2014

Maam Steading, Inveraray

In the north-east part of the Inveraray estate, in Glen Shira, are several dilapidated Gothick farm buildings. Maam Steading with pointed arches, battlements and quatrefoils is a (still, just ) functional farm yard and (former) outstanding eyecatcher, designed by Robert Mylne in 1787-9.


Maam Steading was originally planned as a circle, not uncommon for Scottish farms, but eventually only a half circle was realised, with blank castellated white walls to end both sides.


Sadly, in such a remote glen, far off the beaten track, Maam Steading has been allowed to fall into ruin, unobserved as it collapses. While the Duke of Argyll holds out for public funds to restore his property, Maam Steading deteriorates, unnoticed, disappearing into the past.


The view from the entrance to Maam Steading looking north up Glen Shira  towards Rob Roy MacGregor's house. If that isn't enough to save it, nothing is.